I have said over and over again that I love it here in Rwanda, but since work is often frustrating and the housing hunt has become epic some may wonder WHY I love this place so much. what is the deal with Rwanda anyway? I find it very hard to articulate but here is my effort:
Mountains – everywhere you look, there are hills upon hills. Terraces of maize, cassava and various other crops can be seen along with banana trees and tea. Everything is vibrantly green and even on cloudy days when it is raining there is an element of otherworldly beauty in these hills. I can go for a few days without really noticing it and then suddenly I turn around and it takes my breath away.
Kigali Traffic – I have a friend currently in Vietnam and I read in his blog about traffic in Hanoi and count myself blessed - traffic here in Kigali is crazy enough. While for my friend dealing with the traffic is taking his life in his hands, for me it is a source of amusement, wonder and occasionally pure terror. Some examples:
Lanes are just lines on the road, they are suggestions but really don’t mean anything.
Right of way goes to whichever vehicle is bigger, faster or more reckless.
Motorcycle taxis can go anywhere – including the wrong side of the road, sidewalks, gutters and just about anywhere else you can think of.
Bus taxis – large vans that serve certain routes – pay little attention to pedestrians, fit up to 25 people ‘comfortably’ and I am never certain if the banging sound I just heard was not in fact some vitally important piece of the engine falling off.
Honking is a language unto itself. It has its own grammatical structure here. There are honks that say “I am passing you on the left”, or on the right or “move over”. There are honks that say “Do you want a taxi?” or “I know you!” or just “hey look at the mzungu!” (mzungu is the word for white person or foreigner but it is not derogatory)
The Streets – There is always so much going on in the streets. People selling clothes -jeans, shoes, suit jackets; selling food, things for tourists, airtime etc. The streets are always full of people. Even at 10 pm or 1am, there are people walking from place to place. Kigali is one of the safest cities in Africa so crime is a minor concern. While walking home it is not uncommon to come across a couple of goats happily grazing on the street or several cows wandering through. While this does not happen in the city centre like it does in Mthatha South Africa, it happens often enough.
The people – Rwandans seem reserved and dignified when you first meet them – and they are. But they love to laugh and joke and have fun in a way that blows your first impressions out of the water. The Rwandans that I work with are warm, friendly and hard working. My Rwandan friends make sure that I am taken care of and fine. Despite the tragedies of the past, Rwandans have a hopeful and positive vision of their future and are working hard to make this future a reality. It is amazing to watch and a genuine honour to be a part of.
So, now maybe you can see a little of why I love this place so much. I have been here a month and already it feels normal and comfortable. I feel very much at home here, at least most days. Of course there are still cultural things that confuse me – the greetings and the language, but slowly, (bohora bohora) I am getting it.
Laura, it always kind of amazes me that you seem to have known that you belong in Africa, and now that you're there, you feel at home. What a blessing!
ReplyDeleteLaura, I swear that you're just out to make me more jellous every time that you post something, or text me randomly from Kigali!!
ReplyDeleteHahaha... I love that list!! It's all so true. I can't wait to get back to Kigali!! (Although it's looking more and more like it won't be until August :(
Keep living my dream! (and yours too I guess...lol)